F.A.Q.

First things first. Click this link, and read!

http://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/diy-faq-all-your-answers-one-big-post-4288/

MiataTurbo has a wealth of information for the masses, be wary of asking questions without searching first.

To simplify, you need the following:

• Understand your power goals and how you want to use the car. If you want to stay under 260-280whp, a GT2550 or 2560 is a great option. If you want more power (north of 280whp) I recommend either EFR6758 or GTX2860 THIS WILL REQUIRE DRIVELINE UPGRADES. Understand what you are getting yourself into. Torsen’s are known to hold upto 400whp (some require a brace installed on the differential ear, it all depends on how you drive the car, and what you are doing with it)
• Standalone ECU (Megasquirt, BeerMoneyMotorsports, SpeedyEFI)
• Comprehensive Turbo kit (Kraken, FlyinMiata) This is not the avenue to cheap out on. This will either make you LOVE having a turbo miata, or HATE having a turbo miata. Locking hardware is the worth the extra expense. 2.5″ Downpipe is the minimun I recommend. 3″ helps with power and spool up.
• Larger QUALITY fuel injectors (We recommend no smaller than 420cc) Injector Dynamics and FlowForce are the standard here.
• Wideband sensor Stay away from innovate widebands, I have had numerous issues with them. AEM is the standard here. Either the UEGO or X-series.
• Upgraded fuel pump (I have personally had stock fuel pumps support 260-280whp on pump 93 Know your power goal to avoid buying unnecessary parts)
• Upgraded clutch (ACT makes a good replacement. FlyinMiata’s Happy meal kit is an easy button. We use SuperMiata clutches on our cars here.)
• Professonal Tuning That is a service we offer here, and something we pride ourselves on. With years of experience on the platform we have the skills to make your miata reliable, and still act as OEM as possible.

To be clear, torque is typically what ends up breaking things. I’ve had so many people ask what the “max psi” the stock internals can handle is, but there are so many other variables involved. One turbo might make 240whp @ 18psi, another might make 240whp @ 13psi. Both are equally stressful on the mechanical parts. (More psi just makes more heat which can lead to detonation, so it is a factor). Just to give you a general guideline, these are the somewhat “accepted” maximum values:

1990-1993 1.6L Differential (Open & VLSD): 200wtq || Common upgrade: 1994-2001 Torsen LSD

1994-2005 1.8L Differential (Open, Torsen, & TFG CLSD): 350wtq || Common upgrade: V8 Roadsters Getrag Swap

1990-1993 (1.6L) Clutch: 150wtq || Common upgrade: Flyin’ Miata or ACT

1994-2005 (1.8L) Clutch: 170wtq || Common upgrade: Flyin’ Miata or ACT

5-Speed Transmission (1990-2005): 240wtq || Common upgrade: Miata 6-speed Trans

6-Speed Transmission (1999-2005): 280wtq* || Common upgrade: FC RX7 Turbo II or Kmiata BMW Trans Swap

Connecting Rods (1990-2005): 240wtq || Common upgrade: Manley Forged/MaxspeedingRods

Oil Pump (1990-2005): 240-280whp** || Common upgrade:Boundary Engineering

*Results may vary greatly with this trans. It’s definitely stronger than the 5-speed as some people get away with 400wtq+ on it, but you are on very thin ice above 300wtq depending on the use of the car. Highly recommend using a sprung clutch to help absorb shock input, and at high power be really careful on banging the 3-4 shift. I killed a 6-speed in 2 days after only a few hard 3-4’s, there is a specific weak point on 4th gear that cannot handle a lot of shock, eventually causing the trans to try to go into 3rd and 4th at the same time. More info here.

**Above this, for safety it’s highly recommended to upgrade to an ATI Super Damper, Boundary Engineering Oil Pump, or both. The stock oil pump gears can crack from excess crankshaft vibrations once the stock damper is overwhelmed.

Please keep in mind that plenty of people have broken parts below theses values, and plenty have gone past. There are a lot more variables involved with breaking parts than how much power your car made one day on one dyno pull. How you drive is a big part of it; clutch kicks and wheel hop breaks transmissions and diffs with a lot less torque because you’re shocking the drivetrain. Also, you could make 1000wtq but if you’re on all seasons in the rain, you’re probably not going to break anything.

Not necessarly, but the benefits are massive with the 1.8, and most parts do not interchange between the two. If you are going to spend money on boosting, its usually worth swapping in the 1.8

Key benefits are: More displacement (faster spool-up), stronger differential, better ignition, sequential fuel injection, better head (especially 99+), better intake manifold… the list goes on. People, including myself, usually end up with a 1.6L turbo car for a couple of reasons: They already had the car and didn’t want to bother with swapping engines, or they got a good deal on a 1.6L car (they usually are cheaper) and probably never intended on boosting it. Either way, in the long run, the 1.8L engines (Both NA and NB) are higher performing. Oh, and don’t forget that all 1.8L cars have a much stronger 7” differential! (This can be swapped into a 1.6L car, but a typical Torsen LSD swap is around $900)

MiataTurbo Forums (as stated, use the search function or feel the wrath of keyboard warriors)

Greg at The Car Passion Channel Greg has laid the foundation for DIYer’s to work on their miatas. He has done the legwork, so you don’t have too. Please support him and his channel, he has been a major help to the community as a whole.

The Miata.net Garage

revLimitr.net Adam makes beautiful products and has a wealth of information on his site. Check him out!

FlyinMiata Tech page

949 Racing Tech page

Miata Torque Specs + Manuals

Fuel Injector Size Calculator

Here is a check list to do prior to bring your car in. You will be charged for the full tuning session if you show up for the appointment and your car can’t be tuned entirely, do to mechanical failures, or lack of preparation.  This isn’t something we look forward to, but we set the tuning appointment with the assumption that you have done everything to prepare the vehicle for tuning.  Please don’t take this as a warning, but more of a guide as to how to be best prepared.  We want to help you save time, and money.

• Car is Running (unless previously discussed.)
• Make sure your fluids and oils are fresh and topped off.
• Treat it as “track day preparation”
• This is a tuning session, not a diagnostic/repair/tuning session.  If there is mechanical work that needs to be done, and the time allows, the shop labor rate is $120/hr which will be an additional charge.
• Car has enough fuel to be tuned (75% to full tank) Unless tuning seperate fuel.
• Make sure spark plugs are gapped appropriately (we can do it for you at an additional fee)
• Please make sure car is NOT leaking any fluids.  There will be a clean-up charge if the leak is excessive.
• Please don’t help yourself to our tools, shop supplies or equipment unless you are given permission.  Bring tools you think you may need.
• Please do not bring a a viewing party.  We generally only allow the owner of vehicle to be on site.  Remember this takes quite a bit of precision and concentration.  You DO NOT want us getting distracted while tuning your vehicle.
• Make sure that your drivetrain can handle the potential power that the car is going to make.  You will be charged a full tuning session, even if your clutch starts to slip and we can’t finish.
• Tires….Make sure they arent completly bald and are less than 5 years old. I check them!  Make sure your wheels are torqued properly.

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Email will solicit the fastest response from us. Speedbyyllc@gmail.com